Sometimes, what you see is what you get. Other times, what
you see simply sets up a series of assumptions that have nothing
at all to do with what you get. Which is one of the pleasure
of being at play in the fields of restauratdom - unexpected
surprises lurk at every turn, around every bend. Consider:
Driving down Venice Boulevard in Culver City one recent evening,
after stopping at Smart & Final Iris (along with Trader
Joe's, one of my favorite stores in the world) for some hundred-pound
sacks of Peanut M&Ms and ten-gallon vats of jalapeños
flavored nacho cheese dip (staples of my existence), I considered
stopping for some garlic chicken at Versailles. But parking
wasn't so good and the line looked too long, so I kept cruising,
not sure of where I was going.
Just west of Overland, I noticed a small, funky little spot
that used to be home to a so-so Italian-Argentinian place,
a restaurant I remembered mostly because the interior lights
kept blinking on and off all night long. It had become a place
called Bamboo, a Caribbean Restaurant in the style of Cha
Cha Cha, Prado, and Café Mambo...
Beer, Jamaican Red Stripe for me,
comes with a wedge of lime on the lip of the glass at Bamboo
in Palms. Caribbean cuisine is that restaurant's promise, and
I was just back from Jamaica, ready for more of its jerk pork,
ackee and currie. Outside of the beer, I didn't find much that
said Jamaica though, or any other island's specialties. What
Bamboo's chef means is that he marinates the meat in Caribbean
spices and serves rice, black beans and fried plantains with
almost everything. Anyone who doesn't fancy spicy marinades,
black beans or plantains (a category that does not include the
two friends with me) can order pasta, pizza, or Caribbean Cajun
shrimp, whatever that is. The place looks Caribbean. I'll give
it that. There's 30 or 40 seats inside an open dining room with
a patio shielded from Venice Boulevard by a fronting on the
parking lot. The food is interesting if not identifiable island
by island. For instance, chunks of a sweet, dark bread, served
with the meal, are so good they don't need butter. All the waiter
could tell me was that the bread was whole wheat.
Just three weeks ago, Jose Mendoza,
who comes from some of the most famous kitchens in Los Angeles
(including The Ivy and Morton's) opened his own French-Latin
restaurant, Bamboo, primed to become an area favorite, also
features Caribbean influences inspired from Mendoza's experience
working with his cousin, Toribio Prado at Cha Cha Cha. Located
just west of Overland on Venice Boulevard, Bamboo es bound to
give Versailles restaurant a run for its money as lovers of
Latin and Caribbean cuisines discover their new neighborhood
restaurant. Bamboo is a lesson in simplicity. The atmosphere
is casual bare table tops and a concrete floor are the order
of the day and the cozy patio dining evokes meals by the sea
at many of Miami Beach's warm and breezy latin cafes.
When Jose Mendoza decided he wanted
to serve great food at reasonable prices, the well known chef
(Copa Cabana, Ivy, Morton's) searched all over the westside
for a good location. It would be his first restaurant and he
wanted to find the perfect spot. He ended up at 10835 Venice
Blvd. in Culver City, and he is quite pleased with its proximity
to business and studio people in the day, and neighborhood families
at night. It has only been five weeks since Mendoza opened Bamboo
Restaurant, but already this mixture of fabulous French, Latin
and Caribbean cuisine has captivated the appetites of local
office worker and resident alike. "Everyone told me I was crazy
to open a restaurant at this time," Mendoza smiles in recollection.
"Everyone told me the recession would kill my business before
it even got off the ground. But ever since I opened, business
has been very good! And it's building everyday." Considering
the significant role word of mouth plays in a small restaurant's
success, it's no surprise that Bamboo adds new clientele all
the time. While a curious few stop in to discover a new eatery
on their own, a great deal of Bamboo's business has been repeat
and referral.
Lunch of the Week at BAMBOO is a
picturesque, cozy and inviting Caribbean restaurant where I
had one of the most pleasurable lunches of the year. There was
enough for two people, and although they call it a BBQ Salad
it's really grilled and as far removed from the name as it can
get. The platter is covered with greens topped with an array
of vegetables and blanketed with finger-strips of magnificently
marinated chicken. And hidden in little separate pockets were
whipped potatoes, black beans, rice, and the best tasting fried
plantains I've ever had. True CAribbean spices are captured
throughout and the never quits. Its $8.25 and worth any trip.
The menu is easily under $10. Another palate-pleaseris the marinated
skinless breast of chicken served on garlic French bread, covered
with mozzarella cheese, lettuce and tomatoes, ($5.75). But the
salad is an absolute must!
